Thomas Ridge, Clouds, from Appalachian Trail June 2010

Last June, we hiked to LeConte Lodge along the Appalachian and Boulevard Trails, staying overnight, and returning via the Alum Cave Trail.  I'd sworn I would never again do the Boulevard Trail after hiking it round trip in October2007.  I was outvoted, thankfully, as it resulted in views of the Thomas Ridge (which I have photographed before) on the North Carolina site of the Smokies that were spectacular.

This photo was taken where the Sweat Heifer Creek Trail meets the Appalachian Trail, about 1.7 miles (according to the sign) up the Appalachian Trail from the trail head at Newfound Gap.  There is an open area at the start of the Sweat Heifer Creek trail that permits sweeping views of the North Carolina side of the Smokies.

Late Spring in the Smokies is a great time for the billowy cumulus congestus clouds that make for great black and white landscape photographs.  This was taken in color and converted, with additional contrast and black and white filter adjustments to bring out the details in the clouds and ridge.

Mount LeConte, Afternoon Clouds, Late Summer 2009

I was lucky enough to find myself in Sevier County today on business. Between meetings, I drove the Gatlinburg "bypass" to my favorite Mount LeConte overlook. For the day after Labor Day, the weather was warm (84) but pleasant. As the image demonstrates, the clouds were thick, but full of character.

I've said the middle of the afternoon is usually not a great time for landscape photographs but there are always exceptions. The point I was trying to convey was not so much the details of Mount LeConte, the clouds obscured the peaks anyway and moving the camera angle any lower would have included in the image some unsightly weeds that have grown up over the summer. Taking what was offered, I focused on capturing the contrasts in the summer clouds without worrying too much about the exposure on the mountain.

Because it was the afternoon, the overall contrast in the clouds was low; the original image is quite flat. I chose this one (out of the several rather good potential images) because the exposure captured the sunlight on Mount LeConte without over-exposing the brightest spots in the clouds.

Abrams Falls, Summer 2009 - Close Up

This is from the same hike I wrote about yesterday. One benefit of hiking "off-peak" is that it is easier to obtain good photographs from angles that would not otherwise be available. Sure, lots of folks walk to the edge of the flat rock and have their photo taken with the falls behind it. But setting up a camera on a tripod on a smallish and crowded rock isn't something I'll do. Folks come to Abrams Falls and the Smokies to see the beauty, not to watch out for guys with tripods.

I've always found the hike to Abrams Falls a bit of a downer. It isn't the view or the trail that is at fault. It is just that it is a short hike to a popular destination. On the "easy" trails, you come upon a lot of folks who act as if they still live in their insular "city" surroundings. Many don't acknowledge your existence, much less respond to a hello. Some are flat out rude, acting as if you are trespassing on their property.

One of the things I like about hiking the more demanding trails is that more folks will say hello, some will even stop and talk to you. It's kind-of an unwritten rule for the "serious hikers club." Another unwritten rule is to not let the rude hikers spoil the experience.

Before digital cameras were popularly available, I used to hike with a 4 x 5 field view camera, the kind you have to crawl under a cloth to compose and focus. Several photographs I've previously posted, of Anthony Creek, Mount LeConte, and Ramsey Cascade, were taken with it. It was a not just a great camera, fun to use, it sparked a number of nice conversations with serious hikers curious about the "old fashioned" camera. Some days I wish I had a digital camera that looks like a 4 x 5 field view.

This is another less than easy photo to create. It was digitally converted to black and white and then the contrast was enhanced. To get definition in the darker areas without losing luminosity in the falls, I had to give a little on the brightest parts of the falls. As a result, portions of the water are untextured white. I don't mind this as long as the white portions aren't too obtrusive.

Abrams Falls, Summer 2009

By late August 2009, most of the East Tennessee schools have started back causing the weekday crowds in the Smokies to lighten up. I took the opportunity to hike to Abrams Falls in Cades Cove. I tend to avoid Cades Cove but only because it is over-used and I run short on patience in traffic jams.

The hike to Abrams Falls, 2.5 miles (one way), is moderate only because there are several short climbs along the way. Most of the trail was flat, wide and well-worn. The Park closed this trail for several days earlier this summer due to bear activity. We did not see any bears while hiking but several other hikers reported seeing bears on the trial. We certainly saw signs of recent bear activity.

The falls are extremely popular especially when it is hot and I have, in past trips, had to wait a while before I could take a photograph that did not have a person standing next to the falls. If this hike was any indicator, the time when Abrams Falls is least populated (but still very popular) is mid to late morning. We didn't have the falls all to ourselves at any point but there were only a handful of folks there until just before we left. On the way out, we met a good number of hikers (many wearing swimsuits) so avoid the latter parts of the day if you hope to take unpopulated photographs of Abrams Falls.

I have to admit I've always found Abrams Falls to be a difficult subject. Aside from the crowds there have been times when fallen tree logs leaned into the falls. I find it difficult to derive a satisfactory balance between the light on the falls and the wooded area above the falls. This photograph was better than any others I have taken but I am still bothered by the bushes above the right side of the falls.

This photograph was taken from the trail side of the pool. I also tried taking several photographs standing in the pool of water down river from the falls. (Thank goodness the water was warm.) Perhaps next time I will try to take photographs on the far side of the pool.

Mount LeConte, Winter Afternoon Clouds, 2007

I had given a talk about bears to a lodging group in Gatlinburg when I headed home, as I almost always do, via the bypass. I always want to see the view from the two overlooks just in case. I've taken many photographs from each. The clouds were moving quickly. Had I arrived 15 minutes earlier or later this image would not have been taken and I doubt the view would have been anywhere near as dramatic. I remember thinking, at the time, how lucky I was to have been at the right spot at the right time.

While mid-afternoon sunlight is often not the best for landscape photography, the angle of the winter sun on the clouds looking towards LeConte from the overlook just happens to be an exception. Other photographs looking to the left and right from this perspective are washed out due to the angle of the sun.

I'm not shy about modifying images so that they portray the mood experienced at the time but this image required very little modification. Other than to convert to black and white, I only modestly increased the contrast.

Mount LeConte from Clingman's Dome May 2008

Until the end of May 2008, I was never particularly enamored with the view from the observation tower at Clingman’s Dome. I’ve enjoyed hiking from the parking lot to one of the open fields along the Appalachian Trail, but by and large, can’t remember when I last hiked up the tower. (I can remember the day; it was winter, cold, and the leaves were off the trees.)

The day was a relaxed one, meet my family at the parking lot and we hiked from there (avoiding the paved trail) to the open area about a mile or so from the trail head. The forecast has been for clear weather but obviously that was wrong. The hike was interesting. We ran into a ranger and a solo hiker who said he averaged 25 miles a day on his summer-long hike from Georgia to Maine. I took few photographs from the fields as the only view was of the clouds. I’m not one to stick around and wait too long for the clouds to change so we headed back.

Because the grandchildren had not been to the tower at Clingman’s Dome, I suggested we divert to it. It was fairly crowded. I took several photographs with my D200 but decided the better view was a panorama with my Kodak digital. The sun was so bright I had to use my hat to shade the screen to align the images.

I took several panoramas, my family waiting patiently (or not, but they are used to waiting after all these years). This image was the last panorama taken. I thought I had overexposed it but a small adjustment to the contrast curve brought out the drama in the clouds without losing the luminosity of the mountain range.

In case you are wondering, Mount LeConte is the peak to the left of center, visible through the clouds.

Thomas Ridge, Cumulus Congestus Clouds

Spring the Smokies is a wonderful time. (Of course, any day, no matter the season, is wonderful in the Smokies.) Spring, however, brings rain and beautiful clouds, before the haze of late spring and summer obscures the peaks and valleys. Seeing cumulus congestus clouds in and around the Smokies isn't exactly rare or unusual but seeing them when the view of the mountains is still sharp doesn't happen terribly often.

One day in May 2008, after school let out for the summer, my daughter and I set out on an afternoon hike to a waterfall. After a half mile of hiking, I realized the clouds were too beautiful so we turned around and drove to Newfound Gap, taking pictures along the way. The weather had not yet turned hot (it now has) and the clouds floated above the peaks without obsuring them. These were the kind of days that got me through law school. (Some now call them "mental health" days.)

Picking one image from this day was most difficult. I have another image of this view I especially enjoy. It, however, was taken with a "longer" lens (60 mm v 51 mm for the one above). While the clouds are more brilliant in the other image I picked this one because in the other, the magesty of the mountains does not seem as prominent.

I took this with my Nikon D200 digital camera and converted the color image to black and white. I carefully manipulated the contrast of the color image and then, in the conversion to black and white, added a complete red "filter" to add drama. I will shamelessly admit I edited out the overlook parking lot.

Mount Guyot, Moonrise, Clouds, 2005

The area between Pittman Center and Cosby has a number of fantastic views of the Smokies. There are several roads leading up the ridges that are west of highway 321. One evening in July of 2005, my wife and I drove up to where were were married for sentimental reasons. We stayed for as long as we could but the gnats quickly became intolerable. As we were driving down the winding road, the moon rose and the setting sun lit up the clouds. I stopped the truck, grabbed my camera and took as many photographs as possible before the light and mood changed. The timing was perfect. Much earlier and the moon would have been behind the clouds. Much later and the sunlight on the clouds would have darkened. For once, I was thankful for the gnats on Webb Mountain.

As it is, the original file is somewhat flat, necessarily so to obtain definition in the moon and the brightest part of the clouds. The file requires considerable adjusment in order to portray the exitement of the original "live" view without rendering the image too grainy.

Thunderhead Mountain, Cades Cove, Clouds 1990's

I usually avoid Cades Cove due to the traffic. Yet, Cades Cove has its contribution to the beauty of the Smokies. Thunderhead Mountain is one of my favorite peaks and, perhaps that is why I return to this spot along the Cades Cove Loop Road for this view of the peak.

I returned to this spot just this last weekend. While the day was not as dramatic as show in this picture, will post those photographs later.

Mount LeConte from Maloney Point on Little River Road

I had one rule in law school: if the clouds were beautiful, the day was wasted being indoors. This was probably one of those days when I packed my cameras into the truck and headed to the mountains. As seen, the clouds were not just spectacular, but the recently cleared storm brought a clarity to the air, rendering an unusual detail to the distant mountain range. There are several places in or near the Smokies to see beautiful, sweeping vistas of the moutains themselves. The Little River Road, just up the hill from the National Park visitor center near Gatlinburg, has three pullouts, Maloney Point is the last one. (In the 20 some-odd years since this picture was taken, the trees have now grown up and now block the views on the right side of the photograph.) Since this is not the typical view of Mount LeConte, I should explain that it is behind the clouds on the right hand side. Just to the left, outside of the photograph, is the Park Vista Hotel, making it important to carefully compose the camera.

This was taken with my 4x5 view camera on black and white sheet film. Even 20 years old, the negative holds amazing clarity and resolution. Oddly enought, in contrast to the Ramsey Cascade picture, the scan of this negative is much more satisfying than any print I was ever able to make.

Mount LeConte, Clouds, Late Winter

I was on my way to a morning meeting when the view at Campbell Lead overlook made me rather late. (I would have been late anyway but this was a better excuse.) Shortly before 10 Am, I crested the Gatlinburg bypass and realized, I have a wonderful life.

The crepuscular rays, lined up with the foreground peaks as if they agreed to pose for the picture.

I've always been a sucker for clouds and mountains.

Lynn Camp Prong

There are numerous opportunities for beautiful photographs along the way to Indian Flats Creek. This is one, along the way, that captures for me the essence of a stream in the Smoky Mountains. The leaves in the lower right were natural, not arranged.

I originally photographed the stream at a higher angle but upon reflection, I wanted the water in the stream to be more prominent so I lowered the tripod to get the camera as close to the water as possible.

Indian Flats Falls

This lovely little water fall is the upper fall in a series of falls on the Indian Flats Creek near the Tremont area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail (to the falls) departs from the Lynn Camp Prong trail and is unmarked but can be located without too much effort. It is a short crawl through several rhododendron bushes to this fall. The lower falls are less accessible - getting a picture of all of the falls involves crawling down the bank and perching on pointed rocks in the stream while your tripod gets its feet wet.

Despite being unmarked, these falls are quite popular as every time I've been to them, it has had other visitors.